2015-07-14
A chain is the most versatile and functional product, which, thanks to the skill of specialists, has become a full-fledged piece of jewelry. It is worn as an independent accessory, complemented with a pendant, a body icon or a cross.
Now jewelry manufacturers offer us a huge number of chains: short and elongated, wide and narrow, classic and decorative, men's and women's, gold and silver, not to mention dozens of different types of weaving. How to choose a chain that is right for you? We invite you to figure this out together.
Chain weaving technologies
Chains are made in several ways - by hand, machine knitting or stamping.
Machine weaving is an automated technology using special equipment. The use of machines allows you to create jewelry with links up to 0.2 mm thick.
Despite the latest technologies, some types of weaving can only be done by hand. And here you can’t do without specialists—chain tyers. The minimum weight of a hand-woven chain is about 6 grams, and its quality largely depends on the skill of the jeweler.
This is really painstaking and time-consuming work. First you need to stretch the gold or silver wire, wind it on the prepared base and cut the resulting spiral into rings of the same size. The chain maker manually fastens the links using pliers, “linking” the pattern, which involves the type of weaving. To prevent the rings from falling apart, all the links are soldered. The resulting chain is clamped between special shafts so that the links become flat.
Stamped chains are made from ready-made links - stamps. At the same time, they are not soldered together, but threaded into each other. As a rule, such jewelry is less durable, easily twisted and deformed.
Solid or hollow: what's the difference?
All chains, regardless of the type of weaving, are divided into solid and hollow.
A distinctive feature of hollow chains is the combination of volume and lightness. The wire from which the decoration is woven is hollow inside, so despite the external thickness of the links, hollow chains have little weight. Most often they are made using complex decorative types of weaving and look quite solid. The advantage of such chains is their affordable price, which is determined by the weight of the product.
Solid chains are much heavier than hollow ones, which affects the cost of the jewelry. However, they are very comfortable for everyday wear, resistant to deformation and external influences and therefore durable. If the links are damaged, a specialist can easily solder the product and restore its original appearance.
Types of chain weaving
There are three basic technologies for knitting chains: “Anchor”, “Pantsirnaya” and “Bismarck”. Over time, they received so many variations that today there are more than 50 types of weaving: from the simplest to the most intricate with links of a complex configuration. Each weave has a special name and can be made in either gold or silver.
It’s easy to guess that “Anchor” weaving got its name due to its resemblance to the weaving of a real anchor chain. It is simple and uncomplicated. In the classic version of weaving, each link has an oval shape.
Links can consist of either one or two “rings”. Therefore, the “Double Anchor” technology is also highlighted.
"Anchor" weave with round shaped links is known as "Rollo". At one time, this type of knitting became popular thanks to the fashion house Chopard, so it has a second name - “Chopard”.
Garibaldi weave is very similar to Rollo. The links of these chains have a round forked shape. It is believed that the knitting was named in honor of the spouses Giuseppe and Anita Garibaldi - folk heroes of the liberation movement of Italy, who were very friendly and shared each other’s views.
Fantasy types of “Anchor” weaving also include “Aurora” and “Hawaiian”.
“Shell” technology has become the basis for creating various types of decorative weaving. Its distinctive feature is that the flat links, polished on both sides, are not attached perpendicular to each other, but as if in the same plane. The technology, characterized by its high strength, got its name due to its resemblance to chain mail links.
Weaving can be single, double or triple, depending on the number of rings connected. A “shell” knit with diamond-shaped links is called “Diamond” (it can also be double or triple).
“Nonna” is one of the most elegant varieties of armor weaving. Thanks to the diamond edge applied on both sides, such chains shine more in the light. Despite the external sophistication, these jewelry are very durable. Oddly enough, the name of the weave has nothing to do with the woman's name. Nonna is short for the Italian maglia della nonna, which means "grandmother's weave."
An equally spectacular variety of armor knitting is “Figaro”, named after the famous comedy hero Beaumarchais, who was distinguished by his changeable temperament. Just like Figaro, weaving is characterized by “inconstancy” - links of different shapes, short and long, alternate in the chain. The most common combinations are from 1:1 to 1:5. Figaro chains gained popularity thanks to the jewelry house Cartier, and gradually became known as “Cartier”.
Often chains get their names due to the special shape of the links. Thus, the “rings” reminiscent of hearts gave the name to the romantic and delicate weaving “Love”. Thanks to the links twisted into a spiral, the “Snail” weave appeared (it is also called “Paperclip” for the similarity of the “rings” with the stationery of the same name), and the divisions, similar to a beautiful flower, gave the name to the “Rose” chain.
A smooth, snake-like jewelry cord with tightly fitting links is known as a “Snake.” This weaving is comfortable for everyday wear, so it is often used not only in the manufacture of chains, but also bracelets for pendants and charms.
The most popular twisted weaves are the rope-like “Korda” and the “Singapore” shimmering in the sun. Such chains are usually worn by women. These decorations are elegant and at the same time reliable in use.
But the truly masculine type of weaving in Russia is considered “Bismarck”. Named, according to one version, in honor of the first Chancellor of the German Empire, Otto von Bismarck, he is also known as "Kaiser" or "Cardinal". This weaving is one of the most complex and is therefore often done by hand. Fantasy knitting consists of links, which in turn consist of several multidirectional “rings”. The weave can be double, triple or quadruple, making it one of the strongest. Due to its thickness and volume, one of the varieties of “Bismarck” was called “Python”.
An undeniable trend is the so-called fantasy chains. These decorations are distinguished by unusual types of weaving, a combination of different shades of metals, multi-layering and the inclusion of decorative “links”. Fantasy chains are more reminiscent of a necklace or beads and are a completely independent decoration that can be worn without a pendant.
Which weave to choose?
Of course, first of all it is a matter of taste. However, some types of chains are traditionally classified as women's, men's or universal. Thus, the massive and solid “Bismarck” is most often preferred by representatives of the stronger sex, and the graceful “Nonna”, “Singapore”, “Rose”, “Love” and a number of other varieties are considered truly feminine. A typical unisex weaving option is “Anchor”.
For children, the most optimal are densely knitted chains, for example, “Snake”, as well as jewelry cords made of rubber or leather.
Choosing the chain length
One of the important criteria when choosing a chain is its length. As a rule, the size range consists of models from 40 to 70 cm.
- 40 cm - the chain is worn close to the neck
- 50 cm - the chain is worn at the level of the upper part of the neckline
- 60 cm - the chain is worn at the level of the middle part of the neckline
- 70 cm - the chain is worn at the level of the lower part of the neckline
It is believed that it is better for women to choose chains up to 50 cm, and for men - longer. Still, there are exceptions to every rule, and when purchasing jewelry, you must try it on.
Types of chain locks
When purchasing a jewelry chain, pay attention to its lock. Firstly, it must be of high quality, since the safety of the jewelry depends on this “minor” detail. And secondly, the lock should be comfortable so that you can fasten and unfasten it yourself, easily putting any pendants on the chain.
As a rule, the type of lock is selected by the jeweler depending on the weight and type of weaving of the item. More massive chains have reliable carabiners, while elegant, thin models are more suitable for a spring lock. Most often, both types of fasteners allow you to easily put pendants with different eye thicknesses on a chain, so they are approximately equivalent to each other in terms of convenience and reliability.
Combination of chain with bracelet and pendant
Many of us wear a chain all the time, so we don’t perceive it as decoration. However, we should not forget that this is an accessory that, like any piece of jewelry, requires special combination rules.
The pendant should match the chain in size, weight (about twice as light) and metal color. Thus, a large pendant or cross on a thin chain will look ridiculous, and at the same time, a pendant that is too small will not fit on a massive item.
Be sure to check that the ear of the pendant fits freely through the lock.
In addition to ordinary chains, there are also chain bracelets that are often worn by both women and men. Ideally, the types of weaving of both products should match, but this does not happen often - jewelry can be given as a gift, purchased in different places, or several years apart. Therefore, it is enough that the bracelet and chain match each other in thickness and metal. For example, the “Nonna” chain will look good with a “Rhombus” or “Love” weave bracelet, and the “Bismarck” chain will look good with a wide “Armor” knit.
Lyudmila 03.12.2019 When choosing chains, I am guided primarily by the strength of the weaving and the convenience of the lock. I don’t like thin twisted chains and spring locks. I prefer wide flat chains of medium length; they always go well with large pendants or can be worn as independent jewelry. But you also can’t do without a thin chain in your wardrobe; they are ideal for miniature pendants. AnswerOlesya 11/28/2019
I have three chains. One with a lace-like weave - “snake”, and two with anchor weave. The first chain has a carabiner lock. One of the chains has no lock at all and one has a spring lock. In terms of weaving, I don’t have any special preferences. Each of the weaves is good in its own way. The only thing is, if you plan to wear a chain with a pendant, then it is better to choose a simple weave. But the carabiner lock is much more convenient than the springel lock. AnswerSince ancient times, chains made of precious metals have not only played a decorative role, but have also been used in various rituals and ceremonies. In the modern world, they are often used as a gift or to show their position in society and status. A correctly chosen one will give its owner sophistication and femininity, and men – rigor and self-confidence.
Chains are selected depending on where and in what company their owners will spend the near future. If these are business negotiations, then you should wear jewelry with a more formal twist, and if it’s a get-together with a friendly circle, then choose a product with ornate fantasy weaving.
Let's figure out what kind of chains there are and how they differ.
Anchor weaves
The anchor type of weaving is rightfully considered one of the most popular in the world. The reliability of this technology lies in the fact that the links are made in the form. They can have either oval or any other shape, using perpendicular alignment. Such chains are suitable for everyone, regardless of gender and age. Anchor links often have the same length, but there are also chains with links of different lengths that alternate with each other.
Double or triple anchor the weaving consists of two or three anchor chains, the links of which are soldered together. This arrangement gives the decoration volume and solidity.
Rollo (belzer). A special feature of this luxurious weave is the round shape of the links. Also, for his assistance in popularizing this style, he is called “” in honor of the Chopard fashion house.
Curtain (Giotto) is a weaving in which the chain consists of thin links of large diameter, somewhat reminiscent of curtain rings. Jewelry with this twist is self-sufficient and does not require addition of pendants or charms. In different variations of this product, the links can be single, double or triple.
The marine subtype of vitya is distinguished by a small partition inside the link itself. It adds strength to the chains when worn.
The Venetian variety is distinguished by the square shape of the links, in which a certain amount of material is added at the corners for strength. Such weaving can only be entrusted to those who have considerable experience in their field. A compound can have from one to three elements.
Cord twisting is an original subtype that looks like a cord, slightly twisted with steps in the form of waves. This effect is achieved by soldering several links through a certain number of elements.
The Singapore type of weaving has not lost its popularity for a very long time, because it has the ability to glow very brightly when exposed to sunlight. The peculiarity of this twist is that its links are slightly curved. Thanks to this, the factor chains have an elegant scrolled appearance. Such delightful products are suitable for both sophisticated women and serious men.
Armored twist
Shell type is a general category of elegant weaves used in chain making. The products are distinguished by their particularly expensive appearance, because the elements are connected in one plane, due to which they have high strength. Such jewelry is popular among both men and women.
(Cartier) - a type of weaving in which the elements have different sizes and alternate in a certain sequence. In the classic design, three round links are replaced by one elongated one, but options can vary depending on wishes. The chains have an original appearance and are highly durable.
Rhombo is a very impressive type, which is distinguished by the exquisite shape of its constituent elements in the form of rhombuses. With this weaving, one link can have up to three diamonds, which makes the product even more reliable. Such jewelry will be a worthy adornment for both men and women of any age.
Nona (Nonna) in such products with elegant craftsmanship, small links are located in the middle of larger ones and are connected in a simple pattern. The name comes from Spanish, which means “grandmother’s weave.”
(snake, lace). This elegant type of curling is one of the most popular all over the world. This name was not taken lightly, because such chains, like noble snakes, fall on the necks of their owners and involuntarily protect their peace. The weaving is often based on armor-type weaving, but the distance between the elements is compacted as much as possible and the product is given shape. In the classic design, it is made round, but if desired, you can choose oval or rectangular.
Love is a very delicate type of chain, it creates the impression of a row of hearts intertwined one after another. Such decorations have a very neat appearance and are best suited for a romantic gift. A chain with such a pattern makes the features of its owner more sophisticated and elegant.
Snail (paper clip, double helix)– an original twist, reminiscent of a corresponding stationery item. Each element of such a chain also looks like a cozy snail house.
Bismarck weave
Bismarck (Kaiser, Cardinal)- This is a chic category of products that look like an intricate pattern with a dense arrangement of elements. At first, this twist was developed for a male audience, but over time, women also appreciated it. In order to make the weave more refined, its links are not placed so tightly together. Bismarck has several versions:
- glamor;
- Arab;
- Moscow;
- stream;
- abinat.
Triple Bismarck is distinguished by an ornate interweaving of triple elements with connections in several places. To lighten such a respectable product and give it sophistication, the links are made not so massive, but this does not affect its strength.
Other types of Bismarck weaving
(Boston, Byzantine, Royal) used in chains that are quite massive and heavy-weight. This is a luxurious hand-woven type in which similar elements are intertwined to create an original pattern. Products with this subtype can have the shape of a square, oval or circle.
Python (Byzantium, American, Caprice). With such a special interweaving of original elements, the impression of a voluminous luxurious product is created. The interesting name was taken for a reason, because such a chain is very similar to the patterns on the skin of a python. The reliability and durability of jewelry with such twisting can become a decisive factor when choosing jewelry.
Persian is a subtype of Bismarck weaving, otherwise called chain mail weaving. There are two types: full and semi-Persian weaving. They differ in the density of the links and their direction. In full, the elements are in two rows and tilted in different directions. In the semi-Persian, the links are arranged in one row and at the same angle.
Turtle is a subtype with an extraordinary twist, the peculiarity of which is that a certain number of elements (often 4) are covered with a figured metal plate. This was the reason for such an interesting name, because each plate is like a turtle shell. This decoration looks strict and therefore goes very well with business suits.
Kolos is a type of twisting in which all the elements are located close to each other and directed in one direction. Chic products with this twist look voluminous and quite heavy. Perfectly complements the confident and status image of its owner.
Rope (Twist) is a combination of elements in which tightly spaced links create the illusion of a twisted rope. Thin chains of such weaving from afar look like a continuous sparkling thread. Perfect for both respectable men and elegant women.
Other types of chain weaving
Rose (Chamomile) is a luxurious weaving that will not leave any representative of the fair half of humanity indifferent. A rose is a symbol of nobility and refined taste, and a chain in the form of a row of chic buds will only emphasize these features of the owner of the product. Despite the fact that such twisting seems voluminous, it is quite light.
Bird's eye (panther or python eye)- This exquisite automatic weaving gets its name for its resemblance to the eyes of a predator preparing to attack. Luxurious jewelry not only looks great on a neck of any size, but is also highly durable and reliable.
Perlina. Delightful jewelry with this fancy type of weaving will perfectly highlight the refined features of its owner. It consists of alternating elements in the form of balls or cylinders. Some designs may use the same type of link, giving the appearance of a string of fine pearls.
Scythe. In this type of weaving, three small chains of various types of weaving can be combined and intersected. Metals can also be used of the same type or several metals can be combined.
The stamped type is a product made by machine by stamping. The links in this twist are hooked onto each other, and a loop is formed for the next part. The set of elements may differ in shape and type of cutting or polishing.
Fantasy (glider). This can be called all the author's original weavings that do not fit any type. At the same time, various types of metals and compounds can be combined.
The right accessories can change your look beyond recognition. Gold and silver jewelry emphasizes the status of the owner. Fashionable weaving of gold chains will make any look unusual and memorable. Besides, this is a good investment of money. Let's look at the types of weaving gold chains and bracelets to know what is offered on the market.
You most likely haven’t thought about it, but soft chain bracelets differ in weaving. For example, the types of weaving of men's and women's chains on the neck and arms are not the same. It is the manufacturing method that determines the style and durability of a piece of jewelry. The name of the weaving of gold bracelets may not tell you anything if you do not understand the mechanics. Let's look into this in more detail. We will consider the names of weaving gold chains for women and men below and in detail.
Popular types of chain weaving
Anchor weaving
One of the most common types of chain making is anchor weaving. The jewelry turns out to be thin and elegant; most often, such chains are worn as pendants and crosses by women and children, but often also by men. Strong anchor weaving is created by perpendicular connection of identical gold or silver links, mostly oval in shape.
Subtypes of this manufacturing method include Garibaldi weaving (two links are connected in a chain), Venetian weaving (from square or rectangular links), cord weaving (several links are connected together at once, every 2-3 links, the result is a twisted chain), sea anchor, double diamond weave, rollo. There are more than 70 varieties of anchor weaving, and only an experienced craftsman can understand the differences.
Anchor weaving and its subtypes are an imperishable classic of jewelry production. This is exactly the same weaving that comes to your mind first when you imagine a chain. Few people do the work of making such jewelry by hand; the entire process is automated.
Bismarck
Beautiful and strong Bismarck weaving requires very meticulous work, but it is worth it. The chains turn out to be strong and impressive, most often they weigh a lot - from 100 grams and more. In any size, such a chain will look perfect; its weight depends only on the requirements and capabilities of the customer.
When weaving Bismarck, multidirectional rings are used, which are intricately connected. Once upon a time, such chains were considered exclusively for women because of their pretentiousness, but then they became popular among men. Remember the “new Russians” from the 90s? The gold chain was their integral attribute, and they were made using Bismarck weaving. Unlike Anchor, this style has much fewer subspecies, approximately 15. Moscow Bit weaving is one of them. It is distinguished by its simplicity and simplicity; flat links are used in its work. When weaving a stream, the rings flow smoothly and almost imperceptibly into each other. The volume of the chain is noticeable, but at the same time light and delicate.
Varieties of Bismarck include Cardinal or Python chain weaving. Such output chains are very elegant and are executed delicately. They are highly durable, despite the fact that they look airy and light, and are relatively inexpensive. Chains are suitable as a basis for pendants and crosses, and those more powerful options can be worn as an independent accessory. The unusual Persian Night weaving also belongs to this style, but the chains are more elaborate and massive.
Jewelry of this type is suitable for both women and men. Chains can be massive and heavy, light and delicate. They are worn with various pendants, pendants and crosses.
Fox's tail
Byzantine chain weaving, which is also known as Fox tail or royal chain weaving, is designed to make very massive and durable chains from gold and silver. The work uses links of the same size and type. Such chains are mainly chosen by men: the products look status, expensive and elegant. The weaving of the Fox Tail chain is distinguished by its pretentiousness and fantasy. The work is labor-intensive, but the end result is very reliable jewelry. The strongest chain weaving is Byzantine.
Armor weaving
Silver bracelet (look in the SUNLIGHT catalogue)
Armor chain weaving is highly complex, but also very popular. It is somewhat similar to an anchor, but the links are located in the same plane, and not perpendicular. The armor weaving of the chain allows you to make a decoration that looks like a single whole. Externally, such products are similar in texture to chain mail. They are highly durable. Chainmail weaving is also divided into subspecies. For example, Snail weaving is made from links twisted into spirals; in appearance they resemble a snail shell. That's where the name came from. But with the Nonna weaving technique, a diamond edge is applied to the chain on all sides. A distinctive feature of the Love chain weaving variety is the heart-shaped links.
Ear
Silver chain (look in the SUNLIGHT catalog)
Can you guess what chains made using the Kolos weaving method look like? Right! On a spike of wheat. A similar technique is also called a spikelet or Fox tail. The chains are distinguished by their high strength and density, the links fit so tightly to each other and are directed in one direction that there is practically no gap between them; they seem to overlap one another. Such jewelry looks very expensive and impressive.
Snake
Silver bracelet (look in the SUNLIGHT catalogue)
Snake weave is great for wearing heavy pendants. It is used to make not only chains, but also bracelets and charms. The links fit together so tightly that the chain itself resembles a tight lace. Weaving a Snake chain allows you to make products from gold, silver or platinum. Some people also use the technique to create rag bracelets and laces. In some sources, weaving is called Cobra.
Cartier
Gold bracelet (look in the SUNLIGHT catalogue)
Cartier is also called Figaro weave. Products made in this way will suit connoisseurs of everything unusual and interesting. When creating a chain, oval and round links are used, which are connected in one plane in a 3:1 ratio. Chains can be worn either with a cross or pendant, or as an independent decoration.
A chain is a common decoration for both men and women. A wide variety of weaves allows everyone to choose a chain for their unique look. To help you with your choice, we will tell you about the most popular types of weaving.
Weaving "Bismarck"
Braided chain "Bismarck"- massive piece of jewelry. Jewelry chains with similar weaving are leaders among similar jewelry and are considered the most attractive and stylish. The weaving technology is quite complex, consisting of two or more rows of firmly connected links. Bismarck weave is ideal for both women and men. The main thing is to choose the appropriate link size.
Weaving "Shell"
See all chains with “Shell” weaving in the SUNLIGHT catalog Weaving chain "Shell"- These are securely connected armor-type links located in the same plane. Grinding on both sides, the last stage of processing, allows the chain not to twist when worn, gives a beautiful shine and allows you to combine the chains with different types of pendants and crosses. The "Shell" weave is a leader among the production of men's jewelry - it is used for massive chains.
Weaving "Love"
See all chains with “Love” weave in the SUNLIGHT catalog Braided chain "Love"– an elegant piece of jewelry consisting of identical links in the shape of a heart. The links create a three-dimensional pattern. Chains with similar weaving are openwork and delicate jewelry. The technology is quite complex. The decoration will attract attention, so it is better to wear it as an independent decoration, without adding pendants or pendants. In demand among girls: it will perfectly complement a romantic, light and airy look.
Snake weave
See all chains with “Snake” weave in the SUNLIGHT catalog Visually a chain with weaving "Snake" resembles a tightly twisted rope or snake scales tightly fitted to each other. This piece of jewelry is lightweight, stylish and elegant. “Snake” goes with all clothing styles. Chains of this type must be handled with particular care, as kinks can easily form. Before going to bed, it is recommended to remove the jewelry so as not to damage the links.
Weaving "Rhombus"
See all chains with “Rhombus” weaving in the SUNLIGHT catalog "Rhombus"- one of the most exquisite types of weaving. The diamond-shaped links are located inside each other, resulting in an unusual three-dimensional pattern. Weaving can be single, double or triple. Jewelry with diamond weave is universal. This is a classic that never goes out of style.
Weaving "Anchor"
See all chains with “Anchor” weave in the SUNLIGHT catalog In weaving "Anchor" even links are located in one plane, and odd links in another. The advantage of chains made with anchor weaving is high reliability and easy maintenance. The simple manufacturing principle and uncomplicated configuration of the links are the best characteristics for using the chain together with a pectoral cross or pendant.
Weaving "Singapore"
View all chains with Singapore weave in the SUNLIGHT catalog In weaving "Singapore" the links are connected to each other in such a way that the chain begins to twist beautifully. The complex spiral structure provides shine when rotated in rays of light. The weaving is distinguished by its sophistication, tenderness and lightness; it will become a beautiful basis for a chain or bracelet. And they, in turn, will perfectly complement both evening wear and everyday wear.
Cord weaving
See all chains with Corda weave in the SUNLIGHT catalog At "Korda" special and complex design. The rings of the chain, intertwining with each other, form a beautiful wave that turns into a plait. It sparkles very beautifully in the sun. Chains woven using the Corda technology are universal jewelry; they can be worn separately or in combination with crosses or pendants.
Weaving "Rollo"
See all chains with Rollo weave in the SUNLIGHT catalog "Rollo" - weaving with round links. It gained popularity after the collections of the fashion house Chopard. Weaving is invariably popular with both men and women due to its versatility and reliability. The chain is very airy and delicate, suitable for small pendants.